Harlem, Central and West

Soul food, the Apollo, Grant’s Tomb, and a certain Renaissance…all signals that, indeed, you have reached Harlem. One of the most vibrant communities in all of New York City is housed here, one that is currently undergoing major changes both demographically and aesthetically. Those gorgeous brownstones that you saw on postcards or in movies are getting a tremendous facelift, and with the dedicated residents already established coupled with new neighbors snatching up the reasonably priced homes left and right—Harlem is regaining the pride of the last century. One of the neighborhood’s most famous landmarks makes it easy to see why--the gorgeous Mansard Roof at 158th and Broadway is a Parisian style spectacular in the middle of Harlem.

Eating out is as fabulous as the architecture—places like Sylvia’s serve up classic soul food and Welcome to Wells is the undisputed northern home of chicken and waffles style speakeasy grub and Atlanta dirty south style cooking. For a slightly spicier bent, head to any number of Cuban sandwich shops or Dominican sit-down comidas.

After night falls, many locals head to SoHa (south Harlem), a dark, semi-seedy locale that draws both Columbia students and artsy locals to its dimly lit confines. Plush seating abounds, as do the high stools around the horseshoe bar. They’ve usually got a little something for everyone—sports on the TV when the big games are on and a smooth, funky selection of music old and new (but usually old) for those who would rather poke their eyes out than watch any sort of organized sport. Another good spot is the famous Art Deco Lenox Lounge, a cool classic that’s worth visiting for the décor and architecture alone.

Getting to Harlem is a cinch by subway or bus—the B, A, C, D, 1,2,3, and 9 trains all run through the neighborhood. Apartments here are often like finding a diamond in the rough—the beautiful details that made these apartments so desirable at the turn of the 20th century are still there, even thought they may be cloaked in reconstruction or simply a layer of dust. Harlem’s famous brownstones are still often up for grabs, for sale or for rent—it’s only a matter of settling on the one you find the most appealing. Neighbors are friendly and into the same community vibe that lives in Clinton, Little Italy, and Chinatown; you’ll find scores of people from young to old hanging out on their stoops on warm nights or simply hanging out with friends near a favorite bodega or soul food joint.

Central Park is another big drawing card for those moving to Harlem—it’s usually only a short walk away, and up north contains some great classical and g eographically themed gardens, like the Italian Garden and the English themed Secret Garden statues. You can also find repose in Morningside Park by the river, or Fort Tryon Park slightly farther north.

Wherever you end up throwing anchor in Harlem, you’ll be surrounded by a rich feeling of community and most likely a fantastic, inexpensive apartment to boot. The only drawback will be deciding whether or not your space really is big enough to have a roller derby in if you get bored on a Friday night.